Enemy Number One

Enemy Number One!

The hot water heater is responsible for wasting more energy per kilowatt-hour than any other appliance or fixture in the average American Home.

Fourteen (14%) Percent of the average utility bill is spent just to heat water!!

Early on when running water came indoors, those who could afford and had the technology available had a chamber or pipe loop called a water-back (or a water-front) installed in the firebox of the kitchen stove. Heated water would move by convection through this chamber to a storage tank. The oldest water-back/range boiler still hooked up and in use dates back to the early 1920s.

The main reason for heating water to begin with has to do with how people bathe! However, precise temperature control has always been difficult with most water heaters. That didn't matter when filling a tub, which is what most people used to do. As toes tested the water, hot or cold was added until the bather was satisfied.

When the "rain bath" or shower became common, if the water temperature fluctuated, it was noticed-and not much appreciated. The Tank-type water heater seemed to gain in popularity around this time.

Galvanized steel tanks were most common, but longer-lasting copper, bronze and monel (similar to stainless steel) were also available. Performance of these units improved dramatically when insulation was added to the tank. These tank heaters still took just as long as ever to heat their entire contents, but they could provide small amounts of hot water quickly for chores. Various methods and energy sources existed, but electric and gas tank-type heaters took over the lion's share of the market.

As the business of making and selling water heaters grew ever more competitive, people found ways to cut costs. Tank quality began to deteriorate as tanks were made of thinner steel, and double glass lining was no longer offered. Metal drains were replaced with plastic.

Manufacturers have also been fine-tuning heaters for better energy performance to meet stringent federal energy codes.

One area that is likely to get even more attention in the future of water heating is conservation. Once the heaters themselves have been tweaked for every BTU of performance, it will make sense to zero in on the antiquated distribution systems where many of those BTUs are being lost.

Other areas for improvement include heat recovery and reducing consumption of hot water.

Because they work so well, water heaters are generally the least thought-about piece of equipment in most homes.

The Future is Here! Tankless Hot Water Heating
The most efficient method of hot water heating for household use is a propane or natural gas Tankless water heater. These water heaters consist of a coiled copper pipe, with a propane burner at the bottom of the unit. They are usually wall mounted, and no larger than a suitcase, making them very space efficient as well.

Water is heated on demand, so propane or natural gas is only used when hot water is actually in use. There is no need to keep a tank full of water heated 24 hours a day. Also, since the burner is only heating the small volume of water present in the copper pipe, the water is heated very quickly. One of the most appealing advantages to Tankless heaters is that the hot water supply never runs out, unless the propane or natural gas runs out or the water supply dries up.

Tankless Water Heating System by Bosch

Wood-fired water heaters are also available for high demand water heating like a hot tub. Rather than using electric heat to run the hot tub like an open-air tank heater, a wood-fired heater uses no electricity whatsoever. An electrically heated hot tub would be out of the question for most alternative energy systems, but using wood heat is perfectly feasible for even the most remote locations.

With The cost of a Tankless water heating system now getting to be less than $500.00, one cannot afford not to consider this option if available when replacing that old tank!

Thanks

E.E.Ernie

Low Voltage Indoor Lighting - Exotic Design, Energy Efficient

Often discussed, little used, except as accent outdoor lighting, the low voltage light! A high tech solution to the wasted wattage of the electrical light bulb that is left on! Low voltage lighting, by definition, operates at 30 volts or less. A transformer, either integral (part of the fixture) or remote (located in a service area), steps down line voltage to either 12 or 24 volts.

When properly installed a low voltage lighting system produces two-and-a-half times as much light as line voltage incandescent lamps, in other words, a 50-watt low voltage lamp generates as much light as a 125-watt line voltage lamp. This caliber of energy efficiency produces a compelling case to consider low voltage lighting for task, accent, and even general lighting applications.

The drawback to AC lighting is that it is much less energy efficient than a DC system in the use of renewable energy generators needed to be capable of producing more power to run the same number of lighting fixtures. DC lighting on the other hand has the advantage of being very energy efficient with the exception of it's major drawback that being the wiring. Direct current requires larger gauge wiring than AC power, which increases material costs considerably if proper planning is not used.

For indoor lighting, incandescent, halogen and fluorescent fixtures can be used. We prefer the Halogen lighting as it is approximately 30% more efficient than a DC incandescent bulb of the same wattage. Also a lower wattage halogen bulb can be used to produce the same amount of light. Halogen bulbs produce full-spectrum light, which appears brighter than limited spectrum incandescent output and causes less eye-strain.

For a small remote cabin, a DC lighting system is an excellent first step into alternative energy. For larger homes, a mixed AC/DC lighting system is a relatively simple way of reducing monthly power bills or maximizing efficiency of an existing alternative energy system. DC lighting could be used in living areas, with AC lighting in the less-used and more distant bedroom areas.

There are many options to consider for integrating low voltage DC lighting into almost any electrical system. A consultation with an experienced DC electrical dealer can help in designing an optimal lighting system for any need.

This is just one of many energy efficient topics we will discuss in this Venue. Look for information about Tankless Hot Water Systems coming in our next issue!

Ernie

Why Build an Energy Efficient Home

The answer to that question should be obvious to just about anyone! It ain't getting any cheaper and the cost of oil is going to keep going up in cost!!

However, I am totally amazed at the number of homes built in this country each year that are not in the least constructed with energy efficiency in mind! The primary reason they are build is for the "Glitz and Glitter" that they present to the public in order to sell!

Most new homes built in Texas are still built using 1850 building technology! Steel nails and 2X wood framing. Put a roof on, slap some brick up on the front and rear, and you've got a home!

Few utilize hurricane strap's to secure the framing to the foundation or the roof system to the frame itself. What is so amazing is that the building inspection officials don't even bother to look for this type safety item. It not required so why bother.

What is even more amazing is the idea that a pneumatically nailed sole plate will hold a home in place in Tornado alley! When a house isn't even bolted to the foundation with j-bolts, one should consider just what is behind the wallboard and whether it is worth taking a look at before you buy!!

Speaking of what is behind the wall board, most new homes are still using fiberglas insulation batts, which in most cases isn't even installed correctly. In addition to the numerous voids, those little spaces or air pockets, left where pipes, electrical wiring, junction boxes, outlets and switch boxes are located, all allow the free flow of air throughout the walls of these homes. This air, along with the highly flammable nature of the insulation batt, makes the perfect atmosphere for a fire if a spark were to ever accidentally occur. Now I know that this rarely occurs, but is does happen!

But the most important thing that really matters concerning the insulation, and thus the energy efficiency of the the wall, is the insulation batt itself! Most new homes are at least using a batt with an R-rating of R-13, this combined with the wallboard, sheathing and siding, one could hope to get at least and r-rating of at least R-19. But under testing at the Oakridge Testing labs most performed at a far lower rate.

So what are the alternatives to the problem of poor insulation performance of the Fiberglas insulation batt? There are several;

• one is to use a blown in insulation product, High Density American Rockwool would be my first choice.
• A second choice, a little more expensive, but much more effective, is applied Icynene an expanding form that fills the cavities between all open spaces within the framing.
• Of course the best product on the market today in my opinion is the Structural Insulated Panel! Here you combine the framing and insulation in one package, which not only gives you superior insulation, but strength!
  
  Thanks,
  Energy Efficient Ernie